Saturday, November 8, 2008

In Communicado

So we totally owe posts about our last day in Santorini where we tried to tour a winery and then took the ferry to Athens, and then the stuff we did while in Athens (visits to Delphi, tours of Acropolis/Zeus' temple, LOTS of shopping by Adrienne, etc).

However, we're in the Zurich airport right now waiting for our flight to start boarding in 20 minutes and I haven't downloaded the 400+ pictures I took while in Athens (Adrienne will never be so happy to see Katie take back the camera we borrowed).

While we're bummed that our honeymoon is over...and we have to return to real life....at the same time we miss everyone and it will be nice to return to the US and our house. If it makes sense the honeymoon was both too short and getting a bit too long.

Thanks to everyone who left us comments on the blog, it was really nice reading them while we were in Greece, and to everyone who came to our wedding too.

Now that we're back and not planning wedding, going to grad school, launching new site designs right before leaving work for 3 weeks, we'll hopefully have more time to hang out with everyone.....although Adrienne just reminded me that we have a new niece to play with, and my two sister's weddings in the next 6 months.....guess life never slows down.

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

"Milk was a bad choice"

For some reason, Dave and I thought it would be super cool to spend a day hiking to the center of an active volcano. We figured, "Hey, it's fall, how hot can it be?" Umm yeah, apparently we aren't the brightest bulbs because we forgot these key factors 1) there is no shade on a volcano, 2) just because the temp says lo 70's, it's actually worse when there are no clouds 3) you're hiking on a VOLCANO with molten hot lava inside, with steam and heat that permeates up through the very ground you are walking on. Needless to say, it was HOT!
And being the genius that I am, I didn't pack any shorts. I'm glad I wore sneakers for the climb, because this was quite the climb - but it meant that I was also wearing pants.

We started out enthusiastic and excited about our adventure. But first, we had to get off the island :) We opted to take the cable car down the mountain, I thought it was a great way to see eeverything - it was really beautiful. This is the cable car we went down.

This is the boat that took us out to the volcano. Look at how happy we are, so naive ;)












We made it to the volcano but while we were on the boat we started to realize how hot it was and how doomed we might be. But we tried to stay optimistic.
This is how excited I was about this climb








This is me and my attitude about 30 min. later





Despite the heat and failing spirits - we made it. This is us at the top of the volcano.




And like Dave says "how many people can say they've climbed a volcano?"

Besides it being incrediably hot, and seeing a few puffs of steam, the volcano wasn't that exciting for me. Dave liked that it looked like a whole other planet, but I was happy when it was over.

We then took the boat over to the "hot springs" they warned us that the ocean was cold, but it felt perfect to me! We jumped in and swam out to where the hot springs was, which wasn't as hot as I thought it was. I enjoyed the cool swim after the rough hike, and now that I've climbed a volcano I don't feel the need to ever do it again. :)

Saturday, November 1, 2008

Son of a Beach!

So on Thursday we got another late start, and when trying to decide which beaches we were going to hit, we realized we needed to rent a car, which ended up having us not leave the hotel until almost 2PM.

However for all of you who were waiting for it...we got a SMART car! (convertible even). It truly is as tiny as everyone says it is. Adrienne made me pose for pictures with it because she figured everyone at home (mostly her family) would laugh when seeing them.




We then decided to drive to Perivolos, which is the black sand beach here. At least this time I didn't throw a temper tantrum and refuse to go on the sand because it wasn't a real beach (which is what happened when at 3 years old my mother took me to the black sand beach in Hawaii).

Like most everything else the beach was pretty much empty and all of the various cafes, restaurants, life guard stations, etc were closed. However we did find one little section where they had left up the palm umbrellas and chairs. So we grabbed 2 chairs and Adrienne proceeded to quickly start napping while sunning herself. I on the other hand walked around the beach getting pictures, and then settled in with "The Audacity of Hope" by Barack Obama (which so far is an amazingly engrossing view into his political/moral philosophy of government).





It started getting a little cold as the wind picked up and the sun started to set, so we set out in search of dinner. I had read really good things about a restaurant called Lava and Yulie (the owner of the hotel we're staying at) also highly recommended it. Unfortunately we were having problems trying to find it since a large chunk of the beach road was shut down for construction, and of course there were no detour signs. Eventually we found our way around the construction (after the 3rd or 4th try) only to find Lava closed. There were only 2 restaurants open. We checked with the first one and like everywhere else they didn't have their full menu. However the place next door, Aquarius, said they had their full menu, which even included soups! Apparently even though avgolemono soup (or Agamemnon soup as I like to call it to drive A nutes) is Greek, soups in general aren't popular in Greece as this is the first restaurant we had seen offering them. Needless to say we were psyched. What made it even better is that the food was AMAZING! By far the best food we've had in Santorini. We're excited because they deliver to Fira too, so we figure we'll have dinner on the balcony some night.

We then drove back to our hotel and watched Harold & Kumar Go to White Castle.

On Friday we got up early to go to Red Beach which is supposed to have red sand and be beautiful. We had to make sure to get the car back by 1PM or be charged for an extra day. We drove along the highway and found our way to Red Beach. However once there we discovered that you basically have to edge along a cliff and climb over some rocks to get to the beach. Once we made our way there we found the beach to be like many of the cape beaches where it's mostly stone vs sand. In addition all of the beach chairs that had been left behind were broken.


Church right outside of red beach





Trying to skip stones in the ocean


It was a chillier day than Thursday and so A decided we shouldn't hang out on the beach but rather go exploring in the Smart car and find the lighthouse out on the edge of the island. We found it, but unlike the one in Argostolion it's more functional than picturesque, and it's a Hellenic Navy outpost so it was locked up too.

We then drove back to the hotel and handed in the keys to the car. We grabbed some crepes for lunch, which were interesting. The Greek islands are apparently where the majority of France vacations in the summer, so there are little touches (like croissants & crepes) everywhere. We then went shopping for gifts, and of course while shopping I couldn't resist spoiling Adrienne with some stuff from Santorini too.

When we got back to our hotel we discovered the people in the room next to us were from Miami and the people across from us were from Ashland! After 10 days in Greece it was nice to be able to have long discussions with people who had distinctly American accents and shared our culture. We ended up all going to dinner at Archipelagos together.

On Saturday we're touring and actually getting to walk on the volcano!

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Santorini Experiences

So now that we've come to Santorini our vacation has slowed down. This is the part where we planned to sleep late every day and just play it by ear on what to do....so far that's exactly how everything is working. Although the first day we did discover that although things on Santorini start late (think 10AM or later) like the rest of Greece, it closes down MUCH earlier than the rest of Greece (10PM vs 2AM).

On Tuesday we really just hung around our hotel room and then explored the town we're staying in (Fira the capital of Santorini). Here's some shots of the gorgeous view from our private balcony:





Unfortunately the majority of the shops were closed either because of the national holiday or because it was so late in the season. However we did have an good lunch of authentic gyros and then we found some handmade ice cream/gelato that was AMAZING! Unfortunately dinner was a comedy of errors, bad food, bad service, and general frustrations.

Wednesday we were in our hotel room until the maid actually kicked us out so she could clean. We then made our way down to the bus station to catch a bus to Oia. Now a couple of things, these buses aren't like the T buses back home, they're super comfy mini-greyhound type buses. However, the roads here are even smaller then they were on Kefalonia, so while the ride is comfy it's scary as hell too.

Now we had gone to Oia specifically because they were supposed to have a "Kastro" (yeah I know if we really wanted to see castles we should have gone to Ireland or Scotland!) and because it's supposed to have the best view of the sunsets in the entire island. Well, once again the Kastro disappointed, it was paved over and really just a place people use to take pictures because once again it has an amazing view (just like the last kastro). Adrienne is convinced that they keep calling stuff castles to suck in all of the western european tourists. Here's the view from the kastro:





Oia was very quiet...much like Sami was on Kefalonia. You can tell it must be hopping during the summer though. I actually enjoyed being able to walk through the uncrowded streets. But the locals were definitely in chill winter mode....even the dogs:



Also Spike you might want to look away because Adrienne totally cheated on you with one of the shop owners dogs who was adorable (she said her plan was to run to the bus with him and pack him her carry-on for the flight home):



After that we did some shopping for people back home, and then the sun was already starting to set (I told you we got a late start!). We were able to get some really neat and beautiful pictures. Here's the best one of us though taken by some nice ladies from NYC who we ended up talking to about the election later (cue Adrienne eye-roll here because I'm obsessed with the election and the polls):



I got this picture afterwards:



Once again dinner was a bit disappointing (not as bad as last night), at this point we really feel like our cousins spoiled us in Thessaloniki, or that the dinner food there is seriously 100x better than here.

Thursday Adrienne wants to visit the beaches.

Kefalonia Part 3 - On the Road

We left Farsa and followed the map to get to Lake Melassani. During the drive we realized just how mountainous Kefalonia is and the lake is on the other side of the island, so we had to cross all of those mountains.



Most of you know how *ahem* "good" of a driver Dave is. But what many of you don't know is that Greek drivers are worse. Because of this, Dave feels like he needs to fit in. Or that it's ok for him to drive like a maniac. Either way, lets just say that I spent most of the ride with my eye's closed. ;) Have you ever been on the seacoast highway in California? The roads in Kefalonia are more narrow and windy than that road.

About halfway across the island as we rounded a corner I yelled "GOATS!" and Dave slammed on the breaks as there was an entire heard of about 50 goats meandering up the road and eating on the side of the road. I got out to take some closer pictures and one of the goats (the white one pictured below) was super interested in us and the car. At one point I was standing in front of the car and he walked towards me and I reached out to him and then at the last second both of us jumped away from each other. Dave said that it was like both of us freaked out and at the same time had similar thoughts running through our heads, namely "AHH GOAT!" "AHH HUMAN!".







We continued on into Sami to Melessani Lake and when we got there we were two of maybe 10 people there to see the Lake. This is usually a place that is swarming with tourists during the high season (so much so that they have a dedicated line for people who arrive on buses). I think the fact that it was low season and thus not busy actually made this a much more enjoyable experience for both of us versus if we would have had to wait in a 30 or 60 minute line.





Lake Mellasani is an underground lake that is a mixture of salt and fresh water. The water from the lake travels all the way across the island and flows out of the ground near Argostoli (where we are staying). It was absolutely beautiful, even on a cloudy day. On sunny days you can see the light streaming in through the ceiling. We took a gondola ride through the lake, the water was so clear you could see straight down to the bottom. Surprisingly, we saw no fish at all, and just as we were leaving a swarm of bats dive bombed behind us.

I then saw signs for the Arcropolis of Sami and a "Kastro" (i.e. Castle) so Dave and I decided to check it out since we were on "adventure day" in Kefalonia anyways. We made our way into the mountains above Sami. Dave warned me beforehand that everything he had read online said this was a disappointing "historical" site. Once we parked the car and walked up, what we saw totally confirmed it. There's basically nothing left of either of them, and even worse the site is under construction (Dave think's they're trying to rebuild it so it's not so pathetic). However we did get a great view of Sami below us....and Dave conquered the most pathetic castle ever. "King of the castle, king of the castle." ;)





By this time we were starving so we drove down to Sami to eat on the waterfront. There we had some awesome seafood while watching a little old greek fisherman get his boat ready to go out to catch some fish.



At this point it was getting late in the day and we still wanted to see St. Gerrassimo's Church (or St. Geranimo's as Dave called it all day....he's such a dork), who is the patron saint of the island and who much uncle is named after, and St. George's Castle. Unfortunately we were racing the sunset as we forgot that with daylight savings time comes much earlier sunsets. When we got to the castle though we found it closed (it apparently closes at 3PM every day), which was disappointing because this (unlike the one from earlier today) was a true castle. According to Dave it was the original capital of Keflonia for hundreds of years. I told him we'll just have to leave more time to see it next time we're in Keflonia.





On the drive back Dave drove by the hotel and I asked him what he was doing. He said our day of adventure wasn't quite done yet. We kept driving through random streets till suddenly he said "AH HA" and pulled over. Turns out he had wanted to find the "lighthouse" of Argostoli, which was built in the 50's and has a gorgeous view. Unfortunately none of the pictures of us in front of it turned out, but Dave got this pretty cool shot of it.



And that finished up our day of adventure in Keflonia as we then had to go to the hotel and get ready for our 7AM flight!

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Kefalonia adventure - part 2 - Old Farsa

We drove up the road of death to find Old Farsa. In 1953 there was a massive earthquake all over Kefalonia and many people were left homeless or killed. There are abandoned villages all over the island, many people left the island for "safer" homes and communities rebuilt on lower ground. Yannis showed us all over Old Farsa. From what I understood of Greek he showed me the old school, library, bath house and town well, and a taverna that was run by members of my family! :)

Here I am standing in what used to be the Voutsinas family taverna!



Old Farsa was really fascinating. We found the old church and graveyard with a Voutsinas family member buried there.





It was really moving to be in a place where so much life once was. Yannis showed us where his family house once was and we saw some amazing views of the newer Farsa from above :)



This is a view of the new cemetary, where my great grandparents are, from Old Farsa. :)


We left the old village and brought Yannis to his store. The girl at the bar told us he had some of the best hot meals, so we thought we'd get lunch. We sat down and he gave us a drink and then started talking about Souvlaki. He said Souvlaki to us and we smiled, nodded yes and said "Souvlaki" back. My thought was that the next thing would be souvlaki sitting in front of us at the table. However, I was wrong. Somehow we couldn't really communicate and we wound up leaving with a croissant stuffed with peach jelly. Yannis wouldn't let us pay so we on our way out of Farsa we stopped at the bar again, gave the young girl(who spoke very good English) some money so that Yannis could have a coffee anytime he wanted, and left him a note that she would translate for him.

We left Farsa discovering that we still had plenty of time (due to our earlier clock/daylight savings time mixup) and headed for Melassani Lake. :)

Best Kefalonia adveture EVER!

So far this has been my favorite day of this trip. Get comfy folks - because this is going to be a long post! :)

We scheduled one day to rent a car (unfortunately it wasn't a SMART car which are just SO cute) and drive up to the village my grandfather was born in. We stayed in the capitol city, Argostoli because it was basically one of the only hotels open. It was eerie, kind of like being on Nantucket in December. You could tell that it's really only a vibrant summer place, but at the same time there is something to be said for visiting a place like this in the off season.

Kefalonia is a fairly big island and there are a lot of things we wanted to do. We didn't get to do all of them, although we certainly got up early enough. Apparently, in our vacation mode, we forgot about daylight savings :p so we thought we were waking up at 7 but it was another clock mix up and we were up at 6AM! Classic.

We got a map and headed up to Farsa. The drive was beautiful - and because Dave is going nuts with the camera we borrowed from Katie, we were stopping to take pictures every couple hundred feet it seemed. Dave is certainly in vacation tourist mode.

We found Farsa pretty easily, luckily my new hubby is a wiz at directions.
If you look at the bottom of this sign you can see Farsa.



My cousins had given us a little map of how to find the cemetery. Funny story, cemetery in Greek is "Necrophitia" NOT "NecrophiLia" ;) Luckily I made that mistake while talking to my cousin, not to a stranger.

I went into this little taverna and in my broken Greek asked the 12 year old girl who was tending bar (only in Greece!) how to find the cemetery. We walked down the road and thankfully the cemetery was open. Before my PaPou died, during one of his last trips to Greece, he took pictures of himself standing next to his parent's graves. I wanted to visit that same site, so my cousins wrote down my great grandparent's names in Greek and we used that to help us find the graves. We found something that looked like "Voutsinas" but it didn't have the "S" on the end and was spelled slightly differently - so we kept looking. As we were looking an older gentleman came in, who didn't speak any English. Dave asked him if he could help us, using gestures and a few Greek words. :) He helped us find the grave (it WAS the one that was spelled a little differently) and we got the pictures I wanted. :)







My great grandparents were Spiros and Theadora Voutsinas (Theadora is my mother's namesake). There was also another grave next to it, it was smaller and seemed to possibly contain a child - it was the Voutsinas name but we couldn't figure out who it was. I'm hoping Mom will read this and tell us who it was. :) The other picture is Dave getting all creative with the Digital SLR....boys and their toys!



Here's a picture of the old man who helped us around, we discovered his name was Yannis(Greek for John) and that either he or maybe his parents knew my great grandparents well. He was really nice and also offered to show us around Old Farsa, the old village that was abandoned many years ago.



Seeing as it was our one week anniversary, I decided to test Dave's love for me by making him drive up the "road of death". Thankfully, we all survived and so did our marriage. ;) You know a man really loves you when he he drives up a mountain on an old dirt/gravel road filled with narrow switchbacks, in a Hyundai on a "road" just barely big enough for a small car, with an old man who doesn't speak any English just so that his wife can see where her grandfather grew up. :) This is the road we drove up.



We also thought it was kind of funny how "inventive" the Greeks in the little towns are. For the "fences" they basically combine anything that can be used to wall off a section. The one we passed on the "road of death" contained among other things: an ironing board, bed headboard & footboards, a ladder, mattress framing & springs, old wire racks from a store, etc.



To be continued.....

(edited for humor by Dave)